Where else in the United States would nearly one thousand people attend a Tuesday night slideshow presentation about travelling in Iran, and give a standing ovation at the end? Just another reason why I love living in the Seattle area.

Kristin and I attended Rick Steves’ presentation about Iran last night. The idea behind his trip to Iran came from the members of the United Nations Association, Seattle Chapter who wanted to try and do something that would stick out amongst all the saber rattling that was going on this past spring. So Steves set about getting his film crew together to head to Iran for a 12-day trip with the goal being to peel back the layers of politics and stereotypes and reveal the human side of the Iranians. Or as he put it, “to at least try to get to know the people we might end up bombing.”

Those who think Ahmadinejad’s words and feelings about the US are echoed by the minds of the 70 million Iranians would be surprised to hear that Rick was received warmly by Iranians of all ages, and that the citizens of Iran don’t spend their time hating the US and Israel; they spend their time worrying about work, going to school, buying groceries, paying the rent, and everything else we all consume our days with. Yes, the theocratic government of Iran does have numerous anti-American/Israel murals on the sides of the buildings and does pay for much anti-western signage throughout the city of Tehran (home to 14 million). But the people of the country were not so different than you and I. They just want to fall in love, raise a family, and get a good job just like us. It would be impossible to talk about Iran without talking a bit of politics, but not to condemn or agree with opinions held by our leaders in Washington (certainly not to agree), but to offer what may be an explanation for some of the beliefs.

The crew didn’t spend the entire trip in Tehran (oddly enough, a city that Rick compared to Vancouver, BC in appearance and cosmopolitan traits). They traveled south to Esfahan, to Shiraz, and Persepolis as well. The photos were very impressive. The architecture, the mosques, and especially the faces in the crowd were all very beautiful. Persepolis was one of the main sites during the Persian Empire and was on the level of Athens, Cairo, or Rome in terms of ancient sites.

The presentation ended with a rousing standing ovation not only for the slideshow, but to also commend Rick Steves for the hour-long PBS special that will be aired in January in over 100 cities around the country. Activism through eductation. I had the fortune of sitting next to an Iranian-American couple who were overjoyed at seeing someone from this country finally set out to humanize the Iranian people and make an effort to show the people of the USA, basically, that there is no reason for these citizens to die. That bomb-bomb-bombing Iran does have consequences. Some of the Iranian-American couples stood up to comment on several things that Rick didn’t get to see, such as the people of Iran gathering to light candles and say prayers for the victims of 9/11. That he didn’t get to truly feel the hospitality and cooking skills of the people because of his whirlwind tour. And one also expanded on some of Rick’s comments about Iranian-American relations with regard to the Shaw and Khomeini.

Rick put together a 45-page journal designed to be a companion to his upcoming show on PBS. I’ll post a reminder about the show in January, when it’s set to air. In the meantime, Rick will be giving another presentation near Everett, Washington on November 8th.

You can watch a preview for the PBS show on Iran right here. There is also a lot of F.A.Q. style blurbs at that link that can offer up some answers to your Iranian curiosity.

By Doug Walsh

A lot of people laugh when I suggest they consider Iran as the destination for their next holiday. Many think I’m joking, or just plain crazy, but I tell them that I’m totally serious.The few people who have made the journey to Iran don’t laugh - they rank it among their favorite countries in the world to visit.After 10 trips to Iran during the past few years, there are clearly many things about this most misunderstood of countries that keep calling me back. If you are looking to get off the well-trodden trail, I say head for Iran.

Here’s why:

1. Iranian Hospitality

Iranians have a centuries old reputation for being a very hospitable people, especially when it comes to foreign guests. This dates back to a time when nomadic people roamed the Middle East and Central Asia.The hospitality tradition has only intensified in recent years, and with so few Western travelers coming to Iran these days, many who do go are overwhelmed by the warm welcome.For citizens of the United States who are wary of our government’s relationship with Iran, I can say that Iranians have a more favorable view of Americans than ANY of the other twenty nations I’ve visited since 9/11.

2. Amazing History
The Persian civilization is one of the oldest civilizations on earth and there are reminders of that great history scattered all over the country.Whether it’s archaic and abandoned ruins dotting the sides of highways, or the ubiquitous call to prayer, visitors will experience a very ancient land with a vibrant and vital society.UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to several locales in Iran, including the city of Esfhan, which many refer to as a “Middle Eastern Florence,” and the ruins of Persepolis, where Alexander the Great defeated the Persians in 334 BC.Iran is a very large country and is home to some of the most varied landscapes in the world. For adventure travelers, all that separates you from skiing and scuba diving on the same weekend is an hour-long flight.Iran boasts vast desert and forest areas. Several endangered animals roam Iran, including the Asiatic cheetah, and the country is one of the biggest fruit growers in the region.

4. Getting Around is Easy

With an airport in every decent sized city in Iran, and government subsidized airfare, getting around Iran is easy. Extensive railroad and bus routes are also available, making all parts of Iran truly accessible to travelers.

5. Iran is affordable

Inflation in Iran is soaring, but your dollar will still get you much further there than in most other top destinations. For the trip of a lifetime, it’s a bargain.There are so few tourists traveling to Iran that it could feel like a lonely place if not for the Iranians’ warmth and their inviting nature. This characteristic makes it possible to truly connect with the people of Iran and their history.

7. Breaking Stereotypes

By visiting Iran, you are making two statements: “I am my own person,” and “I will inform myself about the world.”Iran has been demonized for decades, but nearly all people who travel there come home with their stereotypes shattered, replaced by fond memories of gracious hosts and unforgettable landscapes.

Visit Eram Garden in Shiraz!

I take a walk just before daybreak, in the quiet before traffic has swelled to the point of making the streets almost impassable (you have to walk with faith, my friend, into oncoming cars, and hope they will have enough humanity to break for you.  Not always, I’m afraid…).  The Citadel of my ancestor and ruler of the Zand Dynasty, Karim Khan Zand, is as silent as Shiraz at night, after the street has emptied and storefronts closed down.  It is imposing and grand, with one leaning tower that even experts from Pisa could not straighten; a plaza just outside that leads to the bazaar, also build by Karim Khan, will soon be populated by merchants selling everything from paperback books to nomadic jewelry to freshly roasted pistachios.  It all exists just at the end of Zand boulevard.  So if you haven’t gotten the idea yet, this is Zand heaven.  Shiraz is to Zand as Graceland is to…okay, I’ll stop.

I wandered across to the Pars museum.  Have I mentioned this is the cultural phase of the trip?  We are now on to experience the relics of the past, see the old debris left by centuries of conquest, defeat, conquest, defeat.  Persepolis, baby.  Persepolis.  Xerxes. Cyrus.  Darius. This is the cradle of civilization.  Not to mention castle remains strewn across the countryside.  It is a rich history.

So, the Pars museum…ah, back to the Zands (mid to late 18th century–the Zand Dynasty was so short-lived it often doesn’t even warrant mentioning in books that cover this period of Persian history.  But Iranians are well aware of it, and the leadership of Karim Khan is still legendary here–a mighty but generous ruler who never took the title of shah, but instead kept regent, so as to better identify with the people.)  His remains are now across the street at the Pars Museum, along with his sword and a few other Zand artifacts.  A sign hung at the entrance, absolutely no photographs. Of course, they didn’t have postcards to purchase either. I met the director, Mohammad Reza, whose English isn’t much more than my Farsi, so we communicated in gestures and expressions, words from my dictionary chosen to represent whole ideas. (Leila, I wish you were there!) I pulled out my driver’s license to show I am a Zand. With that, he sat me down for tea. Mohammad Reza, it turns out, is something of a Zand expert, having studied them for some years now. Currently, he’s writing a book on the Zands (in Persian, of course) based on his research. He mentioned John Perry, a Zand scholar from the University of Chicago. By the time we were done, he agreed to let me take any photos I wanted.

I skipped Persepolis this trip, having visited before.  Instead, I was content to spend time just wandering.  I walked the nearby bazaar, built also by Karim Khan, and found a gabbeh rug for Ellen, made by one of the two nomadic tribes in this region. Part of the bazaar opens into a square, with shops all around. My brother Steve told me that one of the shop owners would be sure to recognize me, as he had Steve on his last visit. Sure enough, I heard someone call, “Mr. Zand, Mr. Zand!” Amazing memory, as it’s been over 3 1/2 years. I was accompanied by David and Dan, and we all ended up making purchases from his store, so no doubt he’ll remember me next time as well.

Shiraz has a much different feel than the urban squeeze of Tehran with its traffic and toxicity. At the airport I’m greeted by tall palms and warm desert air—I could be arriving in Tucson. An Iranian man tells me the women in Shiraz are the prettiest with their wine-colored lips and dark, almond eyes, and my Shiraz friends claim hipness over the competing Esfahaners. There is something about Shiraz that makes me feel like I’m breathing again walking boulvarde Zand, the air fragrant with roasted pistachios and kabobis. After all, it’s the city of wine and poetry, the resting places of Hafez and Sa’di, and their spirits move here as well, still revered by nightly visitors. At Hafez’s tomb, young people crowd beneath the canopy.  They recite from heart the sufi master’s work, many holding sparklers or candles, some draping themselves over the marble slab like bohemians at Jim Morrison’s grave. Poets are the rock stars of Shiraz. More so, because they are remembered all these hundreds of years later, continuing to inspire.  It seems about any Iranian can tell you, regardless of level of education or socio-economic background, about Hafez, Sa’di and Rumi, about  Ferdowsi’s classic epic Shahnameh, the book of kings.   Poetry is the perfume that scents this culture, permeating every level.  Maybe it’s helped that there’s never much on TV, and they’re not bombarded by commercial images.  The advertisements here, given the limitations of the female wardrobe, don’t use sex to sell things.  You don’t see billboards with “lifestyle” images.  At most, you might see a photo of a microwave incubating a half-roasted chicken.  It’s a nation devoid of saturation marketing, and perhaps that has helped preserve  these older  elements of society, as they are still relevant as common cultural references and a living part of a national dialog that crosses class lines.  And I can’t help but reflect on our own cultural conversation that is overwhelmed by celebrity gossip and ephemeral icons that inevitably fall victim to American caprice as they grow fat, or their hits fade bleakly from the top 40.  Our rock stars are sadly, only rock stars.

By Rick Zand